WORKSHOP GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOAT
This workshop is for personal use only.
- Use flexible fabric.
- For the inside and the back I used normal lining.
- Sew everything by hand using a small needle.
- Use a good pair of scissors. They not only must cut perfectly, but they must also cut at best at the far end of the point of the scissor.
- Iron very carefully and don't push to hard because otherwise the design will deform.
- Use a minimum of gleu. It's pointed out where you need to glue.
- Right of thread: This indicates the weaving directions of the fabric. The "right of thread" on the design is always in the same directions as the weaving direction of the fabric.
- Fabric fold line: This line indicates the fold of the fabric.
- Pocket line: This line indicate the top of the pocket.
- Lining: The inside of the waistcoat.
- Dart: A dart indicates the place where to cut to generate more space in a piece of cloth where necessary. For example: extra space needed for breasts or the shoulderblades.
- 4 single pieces of fabric for the front; 2 of normal fabric and 2 of lining fabric.
1 backside of lining fabric (the second one will come later).
Cut the design and leave some spare space on each side of 0,5 cm.
Marking of the dart
Mark the middle and the depth of the dart with a thread.
- Make long loops.
- Cut the loops on the top.
- Remove the design and carefully lift one side of back piece.
- Cut the thread between the two layers of fabric.
- Now you've marked on both sides the dart.
Sewing of the dart
- Fold the backside on marked line.
- Sew along an inclining line to the top some 0,5 cm apart from the dart.
- Iron both darts to one side. Don't push to hard, otherwise you will deforme the dart.
Cutting of the second back piece of fabric
Take the back piece of fabric with the sewed darts and put on top of it a second piece of lining fabric. Also cut a second back piece.
The second back piece doesn't contain any darts.
Sewing of the pieces of fabric
Place 1 front piece of fabric on 1 piece of lining.
Place both pieces on top of each other.
Needle them together and sew the arm holes, the bottom, the front side of the front piece and finally the neck line of the back piece.
Glueing of the corners
Because we now have to fine cut the seams, it is recommended to reinforce the 'dangerous'corners.
Reinforcing is done by putting a dot of glue (Tacky Glue) on the marked places (a little red cross marks it). Only do this on the seams of the front piece of fabric and on the lining piece.
Fine cutting of the seams
Because the roundings of the waistcoat go to the inner side, it is necessary to give the fabric a little bit more space by fine cutting of the seams. On the other hand the corners need less space and therefor must be cut off.
Don't cut completely to the sewed seam. If you do so, you risk to tear up the fabric when it is being turned.
Turning fo the waistcoat
- Turn the pieces through the side seams.
- Push the corners carefully with a blunt object outside. Don't push too hard, otherwise you will tear up the fabric.
- Iron the pieces very carefully into their final shape.
Put some Tacky Glue on a small piece of fabric.
Out of this we will cut the pockets and the fastener of the backside of the waistcoat.
Determine the position of the pocket.
Cut the design of the front piece of the waistcoat along the pocket line and place it on the front piece of the waistcoat.
Cut a left and right pocket of 1,3 cm long and 0,5 cm deep. Pay attention to the right of thread and to the pattern of the fabric.
Put glue on the bottom- and on both sides of the pocket (you still can put something in the pocket) and glue it along the pocket line.
Remove the paper design.
Making the fastener of the backside.
- 1 cm from the bottom wrinkle the fabric in the middle between the darts.
This is done to suggest the fastener keeps the waistcoat together.
- Cut from the glued fabric two long pieces of fabric.
- Make a metal ring. Put one piece of fabric through the ring, fold it backwards and glue the fabric together.
- Glue 1 cm from the bottom the piece with the ring onto the backside along the dart. Make sure the ring is in the middle of the backside.
- Pull the second piece through the ring, cut to match the size and also glue this piece to the backside next to the other dart.
Finishing the waistcoat.
- Place the front and back sides with the good sides on each other and sew the shoulder and side seams.
- Carefully turn the waistcoat and open up the seams by ironing.
- Cut the seams where appropiate and glue them onto the different pieces of fabric.
I have made the buttons by knotting them 5 times on the same place. If you do so you get a small chubby.
LOT'S OF SUCCESS